Restoration of a sewing machine. DIY sewing machine repair. Old sewing machines

This is a lockstitch machine with a shuttle swinging in a horizontal plane. Execution option - with manual drive. It is found quite often and is even in good condition, despite the fact that the car has served a person for more than fifty years.

There is also a domestic similar machine “Gosshveymashina”, which was produced by PMZ in the past. It also occurs in the population. In general, there are many varieties of machines of this type. Let's look at the most typical faults for one brand and, using its example, how to eliminate them.

Rice. 120. Upper thread tension regulator (Singer machine):

a) let’s assume that the regulator washers are either rusty, homemade, or not there at all. It is necessary to grind the working convex surface of the washers 4 , where the thread passes and is clamped. Sand with first medium-grit sandpaper, then fine-grit sandpaper. If homemade washers are supplied, replace them with modern washers from the Chaika or Podolsk machine. There should be no gap between serviceable washers, folded together with their convex sides. Warped washers cannot be installed;

b) it is possible that the compensation spring is broken or does not exist at all. Here, first of all, you need to disassemble the regulator by turning out the axis 3 . If part of the spring 2 preserved inside the regulator, throw it away. The metal has become brittle and when you try to make a thread hook, it breaks. Spring 2 install a new one, you can take it from the same machines that the washers came from. Remove the support ring from the regulator 8 , attached at the bottom with one screw, and cancel. Now, to support the compensation spring, adapt the lower ledge in the tidal semi-ring 10 machine body. File the ledge on top with a triangular file so that the end of the spring fits into the channel and cannot freely jump off the support ( ).

Compensation spring 2 can be made to work on release. It is placed on the left side of the regulator and works from bottom to top. The tension should be light. Last coil of spring 2 make it in the form of a small ring so that the narrow part of the regulator axis with thread fits into it. This ring-shaped coil secures the spring. Some machines have a release washer 5 , a release pusher inside the regulator axis, and inside the front cavity there is a release lever operating from the presser foot lifting mechanism. If the release lever does not work well, moisten it with a mixture of I8A oil and solvent No. 647 (ratio 1:1).

After operating the release lever by hand for 5 minutes, it will work well. The same can be done with the presser foot shaft. It often hangs in the bushings due to the small stroke during operation, the accumulation of dirt and dried oil on it, especially under the coil spring. On some machines, the described spinning of washers is not provided for by design. The spin is carried out by a specially installed release lever 11 on the regulator, which is activated by a finger. A lever is placed in front of the conical spring;

V) A particular difficulty is caused by the absence of a pressure nut on the regulator. Unscrew the regulator axle and turn the nut along the threads on the axle (made by a lathe). Cutting the thread on M6 is dangerous, you can break the horn;

G) if the thread on the regulator axis is broken, take the regulator axis from the “Chaika”-3 class, “Chaika”-2, 2M class machine. and cut an M5 thread on the supporting end. Cut a thread in the machine hole with an M5 tap and install a new axle;

d) If the horn of the regulator axis is broken off, you can weld it. It is necessary to place a calibrated plate 2.1 mm thick into the slot and screw on the nut. It is better, of course, to install a new axle.

Rice. 121.

A plate spring of two branches is screwed onto the top of the shuttle with an adjusting screw. Often a thin branch is broken off and the shuttle works with one wide main branch. The task of the leaf spring is to press the lower shuttle thread. Its tension is adjusted with a screw. At the site of the break of the second branch, dull the sharp edge with a diamond flat file, otherwise the upper thread may break.

Shuttle repair:

A) hand-turn leaf spring 3 from a steel plate with a thickness of 0.4-0.3 mm that is easy to machine.

The time to grind the plate is about two hours. Draw the contours of the leaf spring with the old one, first anneal it over low heat and straighten it, making it flat; Drill a hole with a diameter of 2 mm on the workpiece for the adjusting screw. Align the holes with the old spring, lock them together with a screw and nut, then copy the outline with a sharp needle. This work is painstaking, responsible, and you should not rush to complete it;

b) from many years of work on the shuttle 2 where the thread comes out, a groove is formed. Abrasive microparticles are introduced into the threads from the air with dust. When the thread passes under the pressed plate, the abrasive dust does its destructive work. The same groove (groove) is formed on the plate. For this reason, a plate pressed to the limit cannot slow down the thread. As a result, the stitching turns out to be of poor quality - the bottom thread goes to the top of the fabric and loops. To eliminate the groove on the shuttle, use a diamond file to cut off a flat area until the groove completely disappears, and make a small convex inward on the plate. Do this work like this. Leaf spring 3 place on the edge of a wooden stand with the groove down. Place the non-sharp end of a screwdriver across the plate from above and lightly hit it with a hammer. The plate will bend a little and will press the thread well;

V) It happens that after many years of work, the tip of the shuttle not only became dull, but also became so worn that it took on the shape of a convexity. As a result, the thread gets stuck on the convex section of the shuttle and breaks. You can remove the bulge on the shuttle to a straight line using a mechanical emery stone as shown in Figure 122.

Rice. 122.

The difficulty of sawing lies in the taper of the grinding surface 0 1 -0 2. The length of the treated surface should have the shape of a truncated cone. After grinding, remove rough strips with a diamond file. Sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper, then use a mechanical felt grinding wheel impregnated with GOI paste (sand the surface to a mirror finish). The time spent on work will be approximately 30 minutes;

G) After many years of work, a chip may appear in the end part of the shuttle, to which the thread clings when exiting the shuttle and is cut off. Grind it smoothly upward. If the shuttle is rusty, sand it using a felt wheel. The main task of the shuttle is to jump through the overlapping loop of the upper thread without delay. And this is only possible with a perfectly polished surface. Dirt, fuzz from threads and fabric accumulate in the shuttle, as a result of which the bobbin does not rotate well and the lower thread may break. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically clean the shuttle inside.

1. The part in which the shuttle lies is called the carriage. The base of the carriage is inserted into the groove and screwed with one screw. The type of fastening, frankly speaking, is not very strong and reliable. For this reason, the flywheel cannot be set to high speed. But machines of the Singer type also operate with a nanodrive, where the danger of increasing the flywheel speed increases.

In terms of malfunctions, the carriage comes first:

A) part of the back plate that lines the carriage has broken off. Start the repair by preparing the broken part. To do this, knock out the rivet located on the back of the carriage, place a part of the prepared plate of the appropriate configuration on the carriage and secure it with a nail with a diameter of 1.5 mm with a round head (bite off the excess part of the nail with pliers and make it in the form of a rivet). The rear of the carriage ( ) tilt it back 100°, and be sure to tilt the top in the direction the thread runs off (this operation applies to all carriages of machines of this type).

If the above slopes are absent, the upper thread will break;

b) if there is no lining plate in the carriage, it can be made from steel foil, the thickness of which is 0.2-0.25 mm ( );

V) if the thread in the carriage is broken, cut a new larger thread and make a screw for it with a wide head and a short threaded part equal to 4 mm. Screw thread from M4 to M5 (decide locally);

G) If the side stopper 6 of the shuttle is broken off in the structurally lightweight carriage 3, it can be soldered with a wire in the form of a loop, the length of which is 7 mm and the thickness is 0.5 mm. You can use a piece of wire from the compensation spring. This device works great. Soldering should be done with tin. In order to tilt back the rear part 4 of the structurally lightweight carriage, it is necessary to preheat it to a crimson color. After bending it 100° and sawing the inside in the direction the thread runs down, it is also necessary to heat the front part of the carriage and bend it towards the rear part as much as the rear part 4 is bent - this will maintain the dimensions of the carriage for the shuttle.

Rice. 123. Position of the needle in the needle vertical groove of the platform (Singer machine):

Remove the needle plate, remove and disassemble the needle bar. Anneal the end of the needle bar where the needle is attached in a flame and put the needle bar in place. Place the needle and secure it. Raise the needle bar to the highest end position using the handwheel. On the left side, place a triangular file on the needle bar with its edge and hit it lightly with a hammer 2-3 times. The end of the needle bar should bend slightly to the right and bring the needle flush with the inner surface of the arc along which the shuttle slides during operation. This bending of the end of the needle bar is necessary. Without bringing the needle to the shuttle at a distance of 0.2-0.1 mm, skipping stitches in the line is inevitable. Annealing the end of the needle bar for five minutes is necessary. Without it, breakdowns of this very thin part of the rod occur. A hardened steel needle bar cannot withstand bending without annealing.

1. If there are now skipped stitches in the line, use a screwdriver to slightly bend the carriage upwards. You can and should bend the carriage under various circumstances.

Bend the front part of the carriage like this:

1 ) if there are skipped stitches in a line, fold it up;

2 ) when the shuttle or carriage touches the valve, bend it down;

3 ) when the teeth touch the lifting lever, bend it upward. Bend the rear end of the carriage like this:

A) when touching the valve - down;

b) if the top thread breaks - down or up (it is necessary to experimentally find the optimal position of this part of the carriage);

V) if the bottom thread breaks, go down.

If the upper or lower threads break, in addition to all the measures listed above, check the entire area of ​​passage of the shuttle (carriage) for the presence of burrs and sharp protrusions. On the machine body, on the rack (especially on its right side), on the slides, on the carriage and on the shuttle, smooth, blunt and sand all sharp irregularities on which the thread may cling.

The moment the hook nose meets the needle when it moves from the lowest position should occur 3.5-4 mm above the needle eye. If the shuttle with the carriage knocks on the valve, bend the carriage lower (a FORCED measure!) to eliminate the knocking. Unscrew the screw that fixes the needle bar level, loosen the second screw on the right, and lower the needle bar to a height at which the hook meets the needle 3.5-4 mm above its eye. Firmly tighten the second screw on the right onto the needle bar mounting part. Now the remaining one screw (as on the “Gosshveymashina”) will ensure the stability of the needle bar level, since we were forced to remove the left screw, which rigidly blocked the needle bar with the part (it is better to move it lower with a stop under the slide) ( ).

Rice. 124.
(Singer machine with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):

If, when sewing, for example, leather, the needle bar gets knocked down, loosen its fastening screw on the part and place foil under the rod in one layer 0.2 mm thick. The width of the foil strip is 5 mm. Tighten the screw firmly with a 125 mm long screwdriver. A longer screwdriver may break parts. This measure will ensure the strength of the clamp.

1. Place the needle plate in place and secure it with the screw.

It may happen that the needle touches the right side of the needle plate hole when lowering down. As a result, the gap between the needle and the hook will increase, and skipping stitches may occur in the stitching. In this case, remove the plate and file off 0.5 mm on the right side of the needle hole where the edge touches the needle. File with a round diamond file. The needle should not touch the sides of the needle plate hole.

1. The teeth of the fabric conveyor are dull from many years of work.

Remove the rack and sharpen the teeth with a triangular diamond file. The teeth are slanted backwards, so sharpen the front side of the tooth. Sharpening time is no more than 2 minutes.

Release the presser foot spring. To do this, unscrew the upper pressure threaded bushing so that the foot pressure is very moderate (within 0.5 kg). Strong pressure of the presser foot on the fabric collects it, causing wear on parts and creating heavy running of the machine. It is better to disassemble the foot shaft and clean it of centuries-old deposits with sandpaper. Dirt collects on the rod under the cylindrical spring and films from many years of grease, fuzz from threads and fabric are layered - all this interferes with the free and easy movement of the rod in the spring.

1. Play in connections should be minimal. If it is large, bring it back to normal. It is barely noticeable by hand and barely audible.

The shuttle in the carriage should have a play of about 0.5 mm. If it is larger, move the carriage to the left towards the shuttle. If it is less (and the thread slips through with difficulty at the beginning or end of the shuttle), move the carriage away. If it is impossible to move the carriage, a backlash of 0.5 mm can be achieved by bending (bending) the front or rear part of the carriage in a horizontal plane. If you bend it, it is better to use the rear wall of the carriage.

Eliminate play in the levers under the platform using clamping screws. Eliminate shuttle play on the crankshaft with a screw located on the vertical lever on the rear side of the machine. To see the required screw, you need to open the round hole on the back right side (it will be visible in the foreground). Turn the screw 2-3°, as it greatly affects the backlash of the parts.

1. Bobbin winding mechanism.

Due to many years of operation, the rubber roller of the winder mechanism does not provide reliable adhesion to the flywheel. Two procedures need to be done. Replace the rubber roller. In the place where the winder mechanism is hinged to the eye of the machine, replace the disc spring, if it is provided and is worn out; if it is not provided for by the design, file the eye 0.5 mm in the plane of movement of the winder and install a disc spring. It can be supplied from the stitch length regulator of the Podolsk machine 2M class. or “Seagull” - 3 grades.

It happens that the driver 2 threads (picture ) is placed in such a way that the thread is wound incorrectly. It should wind with a slope from right to left and run from top to bottom. The bobbin in the shuttle always faces the sharp end to the left.

Rice. 125 Winding thread onto a bobbin (Singer machine):

If the thread does not wind correctly, bend the upper part of the carrier 2 at the site of a narrow isthmus. Bend only as an exception and at a small angle (2°). The fact is that the bobbins are not all the same length - due to wear, non-standard manufacturing and other reasons, so you should not bend the carrier along each bobbin.

1. The top thread may break for the following reasons:

A) holding the thread at the tip of the shuttle. It is necessary to perform all the work with the shuttle listed above. Two factors remain decisive: the angle of sharpness of the shuttle and the careful polishing of its surface;

b) insufficient tilt in two planes of the carriage (its rear wall), as mentioned above;

V) The sharp protrusion of the bobbin on the back of the carriage may cause the top thread to break. You can make the bobbin yourself. It should have the dimensions and configuration as shown in the figures. And ;

G) the lining plate of the rear part of the carriage is broken off;

d) the angle of inclination of the rear vertical wall of the carriage is less than 100°;

e) sharp corners and edges on the surface of that part of the platform where the shuttle slides, breaks and sagging from work hardening on the back of the shuttle, strong tension on the regulator.

1. Bottom thread breakage can occur for the following reasons:

A) tighten the screw for adjusting the tension of the lower thread on the hook;

b) the rear part of the carriage is raised high - bend it down 1 mm, the thread will no longer be pinched, and its break will be eliminated;

V) sharp corners and edges on the surface of the part of the platform where the shuttle slides.

1. Skipping stitches in a line occurs for the following reasons:

A) the distance (in height) between the nose of the shuttle and the eye of the needle at the moment of their meeting is less than 1.0 mm. Lower the needle bar to 3-2.5 mm (see above) or bend the front part of the carriage;

b) the shuttle needle-nose gap in the vertical plane is more than 0.1 mm (see above);

V) the distance between the hook and the needle when it is in its lowest position is less than 2 mm. Turn the right eccentric screw on the rod (under the platform). If there is no such eccentric (it is not provided for in the design), remove the rod.

The bar is a part under the machine platform ( ).

Fig. 126 Rod with repair bend
(“Singer” with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):

It connects the carriage mounting unit to the vertical shaft. To ensure that the shuttle goes behind the needle at a distance of 5 mm, it is necessary to shorten the rod. To do this you need to do the following:

1) heat the middle of the rod over an open fire to 800-850 °C (until raspberry color);

2) bend the bar in a vice, the jaws of which are separated by 40-45 mm;

3) heat the edges of the fold. Bend one end of the rod in the opposite direction. Do the same with the other end. Deflection boom - 3.5-4 mm;

4) Eliminate distortions at the ends of the rod. Monitoring the correct adjustment of the parameter: the moment the hook nose meets the needle should occur at the moment the needle stops rising.

1. The pulling of fabric (especially thin) in a stitch occurs due to the strong tension of the lower thread and the strong pressure of the foot on the fabric. It is necessary to loosen the screw on the hook and loosen the presser foot screw, loosen the tension of the upper thread on the regulator. The rack teeth should be optimally raised and extend out of the plate no higher than the height of the tooth. If the teeth are set differently, they will gather and tighten the fabric.

The tension on the compensation spring should be very low.

To ensure that the sewing machine does not skip stitches in a line when sewing materials from very thin (such as nylon, tricotine, knitwear) to thick (such as four-layer chrome leather), you need to do the following:

a) do not throw away the left screw that blocks the needle bar with the slide, but move it lower under the slide so that it serves as a stop, and in the case of strong dynamic resistance to the needle, the needle bar cannot move upward in the slide ( );

b) fill the vertical channel for the passage of the needle, made structurally in the body of the platform, with universal epoxy glue, and fill that part of the channel that remains behind the needle on the left side (from the side of the long groove on the needle). The passage for the needle remains free, but the gap between the needle on the left and the filling mass must be 0.2 mm ( ).

Rice. 127 Repair of the channel for the passage of the needle
(“Singer” with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):

These two reconstruction measures are dictated by the practice of working on these machines.

The needle pitch can be increased by changing the design of the adjusting screw. Disassemble the needle pitch control unit. Cut off the second ring on the adjusting screw flush with the main rod. Assemble the knot.

In the case where the nose of the shuttle does not fit closely to the arc of the platform, a stainless steel plate 0.5 mm thick should be soldered onto the rear plane of the shuttle.

All the best, writeto © 2010

These machines are 40-50 years old, and they still sew, which cannot be said about modern imported consumer goods. I bought it and threw it away, but my grandmother’s rarity is kept carefully, in many families, as a memory and as a masterpiece of Soviet industry.

Podolsk Order of the Red Banner of Labor Mechanical Plant named after M.I. Kalinina produced these sewing machines of class 2-M.

Unpretentious, reliable, easy to use, it always helped out in difficult times, and allowed many to earn a living. It’s a pity to see how young people are now getting rid of old things that can serve their owners for a long time. Most of these cars now rest in a junkyard. And before, the sewing machine was affectionately called the nurse; it fed and sewed the family.

It's time to get down to business.
First of all, we cut off the fabric that women love to sew on the “waist” of the machine. Believe me, there is no benefit from it, they stick used needles, bent, blunt, into it, and then they try to reuse the same needles. And they can’t understand why the machine doesn’t sew. In addition, after such stickings, the coating deteriorates and scars like this remain. Used needles should be thrown into a trash bin, that’s where they belong.

We disassemble the machine, remove all the covers, the needle plate, and disassemble the shuttle, as shown in the photo.

It can be seen that lint from fabric and threads has accumulated on the shuttle body, there are even pieces of thread and all this is mixed with thickened oil.

And here there is also dust and thickened oil.

And this is a place where not a single seamstress ever looks in during the entire operation of the machine. Lint and dust and sand accumulate here, in general, everything that gets into the holes of the needle plate.

We remove all this mess with a needle and tweezers.

What time is it here?

The toothed rack also needs to be cleaned, it is best to do this with a large needle.

And of course we clean the shuttle device; it’s good to use kerosene for these purposes; if you don’t have it, you can remove the thickened oil with a knife or screwdriver.

All dirt and old oil have been removed, now we begin to lubricate the machine.
For these purposes, it is best to use a regular disposable syringe with the thickest possible needle. I don’t recommend using an oil can, it overfills the oil and you’ll get the machine dirty and you’ll get dirty yourself. Oil can be bought at any hardware store. Household Lubricating Oil will do.

Here the arrows indicate the technological holes for lubrication, put 3-4 drops into each hole, no more is needed.

And here it is necessary to drip into both holes, one hole of the needle bar and the second of the presser foot.

In these places, the needle bar is rarely lubricated, the friction here is crazy and the metal is used up, a backlash is formed, as a result of which the needle hits the needle plate or the shuttle.

And accordingly, our foot should also move freely up and down. Without braking, otherwise the fabric will be pressed unevenly, it will simply move under the foot and the stitches will be of different lengths.

And one more place that we definitely lubricate.

Winding the bobbin, add three drops of oil.

Now let's put the machine on its side. The arrows indicate all the places that need to be lubricated.

After complete lubrication, turn the handle for a couple of minutes so that the oil flows into all the joints and crevices of the machine mechanism. Feel the difference, it began to work completely differently, softly and quietly.

Pay special attention to the installation of the friction device.
Here you can see how not to do it; this is usually how amateur craftsmen install the friction washer, as a result they do not turn on the working stroke. After which they begin to use their imagination, cut out washers from cardboard, wind wire, in general, whoever is good at what.

This is how the washer should stand, the protrusions should be outward.

After this, tighten the friction screw and the stop screw.

The result of our work.

Do not store the sewing machine near heating devices or in cold, damp areas.

Perhaps the most legendary sewing machine in the world is an old Singer antique. Not only has this old machine been sewn all over the world for almost a century, but many myths have also been created for it, such as the fact that parts of some models contain an admixture of precious metals, or even the entire Singer machine is made of gold. A very nice version, and this old model Singer sewing machine probably deserved it.
Another myth is that Singer sews everything, especially leather, just a myth, nothing more.
But our task is not to discuss such “fairy tales”, but to help you repair such an old machine if you suddenly decide to use it. Although, as a decoration for the interior of a house in a retro style, such a Singer sewing machine is more suitable.

1. This Singer model is a real antique.

This model old Singer sewing machine, indeed, can be called a real antique. Her sewing shuttle is not round, like those of conventional sewing machines, but long, like a bullet, into which the same elongated bobbin with thread is inserted. This machine is so outdated that it is not worth even trying to repair it. But we will assume that you have such a need. Then, to give you some confidence, the vintage Singer model has one unique property, allowing her to sew without skipping. The needle, when it “meets” the nose of the shuttle, creates a loop for capture twice.

Perhaps this technical feature machines and became the reason for the myth about flawless sewing of any fabric on an old Singer sewing machine. In fact, any Podolsk manual machine, and even more so modern machines, sew much better and faster. In addition, they have a zigzag stitch, on the basis of which many additional operations and stitches are provided.

2. Old Singer with swinging shuttle

The old Singer sewing machine with a swinging shuttle is practically no different in design from the PMZ sewing machine and has the same adjustment parameters, despite its hundred years of age.

The shuttle is attached to the machine body somewhat differently, and some models have a rather original device for winding thread onto a bobbin. Otherwise, the sewing machine with an oscillating shuttle is absolutely similar to the Podolsk sewing machine. Is that the flywheel of the Singer sewing machine is more massive and has a larger diameter.
There are antique Singer sewing machines with a vertical shuttle device, but in our country they are very rare.

Such a car can only be called an antique; many of them are still in use without causing any complaints. But minor adjustments and lubrication, however, will not hurt any machine.

Before you begin repairing your Singer sewing machine, you need to clean it of fringes and dirt. Remove the presser foot, needle plate and front cover. Now look at how the nose of the shuttle interacts with the needle. But, this should only be done if there are gaps in the line and you cannot eliminate them in other ways. In this case, you may have to lower the needle bar and make another adjustment. For more details, see the article on industrial sewing machine sewing machine 1022, 22 class. It has a section on adjusting the needle bar.

If the machine sews normally, it is better not to touch this unit at all. Most often, the cause of the “malfunction” is that the needle is installed incorrectly. In older Singer machines, the needle is, in most cases, installed so that the thread is inserted into the eye of the needle on the left. That is, when installing the needle, the cut of the flask should be on the right. But sometimes, it depends on the type of fastening of the shuttle stroke, the needle needs to be placed in reverse. And then the thread is wound on the right, and the cut of the bulb is on the left.
This is exactly how the needle is installed on most PMZ foot and hand sewing machines and other brands of lockstitch machines. But sometimes there are PMZ models where the thread is wound on the left. This depends on the year of manufacture of the machine and the type of shuttle fastening.

To figure out how to properly install the needle, lower it down with the needle plate removed. By turning the handwheel, make sure that the nose of the shuttle fits exactly into the needle blade, the recess above the eye of the needle. In this case, the needle is installed correctly.
The thread should always be threaded into the eye of the needle from the side of the long groove.

Improper assembly of the upper thread tensioner is one of the causes of poor stitching. On Singer sewing machines, the tensioner is assembled in exactly the same sequence as shown in this photo.

A compensation spring must be installed. Its purpose is to pull back the top thread while forming a stitch. Too little or no spring tension can cause the top thread to “loop” from below.
When you lift the presser foot, the tension on the upper thread should be completely released. A small “nail” shaped rod inside the tensioner is responsible for this. He must press the washer (W) with the foot raised completely, which blocks the spring pressure on the plates (T).

It often becomes necessary to remove the flywheel of a Singer sewing machine. When installing it back, it happens that the friction washer is inserted incorrectly. The antennae of the washer should be directed upward, as in the photo, but they are often placed the other way around.
A correctly placed puck always tends to fly off, but it is difficult to hold it. That's why I want to put it with the antennae down. Not only do the antennae have to point straight up, but they only have one correct position, otherwise the limit screw will not allow the flywheel to be tightened tightly to the main shaft.

Sometimes it happens that a machine, after being lubricated with the wrong oil, stops turning. In this case, you can turn the car only after generous lubrication with oil and kerosene.
After a long “acidification”, you need to rotate the machine by the shaft splines, and very carefully, literally millimeter by millimeter. To do this, you need to insert a solid non-metallic object into the grooves of the main shaft, which will serve as a lever. The shaft is made of cast iron and the grooves may break, move it carefully.

Before you begin repairing the manual drive, remove (unscrew) it from the machine frame. To do this you will need a large screwdriver. On some models of Singer sewing machines, the drive is bolted, then you will need an 11mm wrench.

The manual drive of the Singer sewing machine has two gears. They are screwed to the drive housing with large bushing-screws, which have a slot in the head for a screwdriver, a powerful screwdriver. Tighten these screws first, they may be loose. Be sure to lubricate them with machine oil first.
You can unscrew them completely, wipe them, lubricate them and screw them back tight again. Or you don’t have to remove it, but simply carefully drip oil into the holes provided for this with an oil can.

Often, the internal thread for these screws on the drive housing is “broken”, then the screw will turn and not tighten. This is a “sad” case, and you cannot fix such a breakdown yourself. We can advise you to “seat” the threaded connection with super glue, but there is no guarantee. For more information about the device of the manual drive, including for the Singer sewing machine, see Sewing manual drive.

7. Lubricating the Singer sewing machine

Everyone knows how to lubricate sewing machines. After all, there are many holes for lubrication on the body of the Singer sewing machine. However, what many people overlook is that the most important lubrication points are at the bottom of the machine, not at the top. Therefore, turn the car on its side and be sure to lubricate all the places indicated by the arrows in this photo with machine oil.

It is better to take machine oil into a medical syringe and drop small drops into all accessible places where there is friction of metal parts. And, do not forget that you cannot use oil of other brands, except for special oil for sewing machines.

Over the course of its history, Singer has produced many models of sewing machines. The first of them were delighted with a real weaving shuttle. Some of the older models of sewing machines have modern type horizontal swinging shuttle device. But there are also models that are almost a century old, with a horizontal type of shuttle, which is only now being widely used in modern household sewing machines.

Repairing Singer sewing machines manufactured a hundred years ago or more is becoming more difficult complete absence spare parts You can only find used spare parts. But is it necessary to repair it when there are many modern and inexpensive sewing machines in stores?

The bobbin on an antique Singer sewing machine is not at all similar to modern bobbins. It is a long narrow spool onto which the thread is wound with a special device. It is installed on the body of the machine, and rather than winding the thread, it lays it out, turn by turn.

Foot drive is most often found on antique Singer sewing machines. Openwork beautiful patterns and the signature Singer logo cast in cast iron make it attractive to lovers of retro style. Repairing the foot drive of this machine is similar to repairing the foot drive of any other machine. There are some tips on how to repair the drive in this article.

The cause of needle breakage on an old Singer sewing machine with a “bullet-shaped” shuttle may be the needle plate, or rather the hole in the needle plate. From prolonged use, the hole is severely broken by the needle and enlarged. There are many notches on the edges that prevent the free movement of the fabric.

Gaps on any sewing machine are of the same nature. Also for the old Singer sewing machine, the main reasons for the appearance of gaps are related to the needle and shuttle. For one reason or another, the nose of the shuttle does not remove the thread from the needle. Why this happens, read this article.

Regular lubrication of your sewing machine is a must. The machine must be lubricated at least once a year and only with machine oil. If you decide to repair an old Singer sewing machine, first of all, remove the needle plate and front cover, clean all its parts and generously lubricate it with machine oil.

The sewing machine mechanism includes a huge number of functional components, each of which is responsible for specific actions. This is what it's all about complexity and importance sewing technical equipment. Specialists of the Vostok-Polyus service center in Moscow are able to fix any machine breakdown inexpensively and in the shortest possible time.

Possible malfunctions of the sewing machine

1. The needle is not positioned correctly. As a result, looping problems and thread breakage may occur over time;
2. Needle breakage. This malfunction is caused by incorrect positioning of the presser foot;
3. Inaccurate thread direction. To fix this, you will need to check the condition of the shuttle and the position of the upper thread;
4. Damage and regular tearing of the lower and upper threads;
5. Skipping stitches;
6. The sewing machine moves too hard;
7. The unit does not turn on;
8. Extraneous sound and grinding noise.

Sewing machine repair is necessary in any of the above cases. But at the same time, experts not recommended carry out the recovery procedure with my own hands. A person who does not have enough knowledge and experience will not be able to repair a sewing machine and bring the equipment to the required condition. His actions, on the contrary, will aggravate an already difficult situation. In such cases always ready The employees of the Vostok-Pole sewing machine repair workshop can offer their professional help.

Working algorithm of the Vostok-Pole team of masters

1. The client calls the hotline number indicated on the official website of the service center, brings his unit to one of the workshops in Moscow independently, or uses the courier delivery service from the company;
2. The organization’s specialist advises the client on any question of interest and gives him an informative, comprehensive answer;
3. In the case when both parties come to a general agreement regarding the repair, our craftsmen proceed to the first restoration stage of the sewing machine, which consists of thorough diagnosis THAT. This allows you to quickly identify all the vulnerable points of the damaged device;
4. The next step is to repair the malfunction identified during the diagnostic process - we will repair the sewing machine quickly and inexpensively;
5. After the repair procedure, a second check is carried out to make sure that the previous threat has been eliminated;
6. Issuance of a document indicating a long-term warranty from the service center.

Advantages of professional sewing machine repair in Vostok-Pole

During its work, Vostok-Pole managed to accumulate great experience in the field of repairing sewing machines in Moscow. This is what allows the company to provide its customers exceptional quality services, but at the same time for optimal cost. Our repairmen always use specialized equipment in their work, which does not cause the slightest harm to the elements of the sewing machine. We only replace parts of the unit that have worn out over time. original spare parts, which have been tested for strength and quality.