That a terrible quarrel broke out among the Supreme Polemarch in the Achaean army...
A UPS is a very profitable device. As long as it works, the user has no problems with power supply. But the functionality of this device does not end there. The simplest modification of an uninterruptible power supply makes it possible to create on its basis such devices as a converter, power supply and charging.
How to convert an uninterruptible power supply into a 12/220 V voltage converter
A voltage converter (inverter) converts 12-volt direct current into alternating current, simultaneously increasing the voltage to 220 volts. The average cost of such a device is 60-70 US dollars. However, even owners of worn-out uninterruptible power supplies with a battery start function have a very real chance of getting a working converter for virtually nothing. To do this you need to do the following:
Open the UPS case.
Dismantle the battery by removing two wires from the storage terminals - red (to positive) and black (to negative).
Remove the speaker - a sound signaling device similar to a centimeter washer.
Solder a fuse to the red wire. Most designers recommend using 5 amp fuses.
Connect the fuse to the “input” contact of the UPS - the socket where the cable connecting the uninterruptible power supply to the socket was inserted.
Connect the black wire to the free contact of the “input” socket.
Take a standard cable to connect the UPS to the outlet and cut off the plug. Connect the connector to the input socket and determine the wire colors corresponding to the red and black contacts.
Connect the wire from the red contact to the positive of the battery, and from the black to the negative.
Turn on the UPS.
Eaton 5P 1150i UPS internals
This transformation is allowed only by uninterruptible power supplies with a battery start function. That is, the UPS must initially be able to turn on from, without connecting to an outlet.
If the UPS has a standard outlet, 220 volts can be removed from its contacts. If there is no such outlet, it will be replaced by an extension cord connected to the “output” socket of the uninterruptible power supply. The extension plug is removed, after which the wires are soldered to the contacts of the “output” socket.
The main disadvantages of such converters:
- The recommended operating time for such an inverter is up to 20 minutes, since UPSs are not designed for long-term battery operation. However, this drawback can be eliminated by embedding a computer fan operating at 12 V into the UPS case.
- Lack of battery charge controller. The user will have to periodically check the voltage at the drive terminals. To eliminate this drawback, you can embed a regular automotive relay into the design of the converter by soldering the red wire behind the fuse to pin 87. If connected correctly, such a relay will turn off the power supply when the battery voltage drops below 12 volts.
How to make a power supply from an uninterruptible power supply
In this case, of the entire design of the uninterruptible power supply, only . Therefore, the user who decides to remake the UPS in this way will have to either gut the entire UPS, leaving only the case and transformer, or remove this part, preparing a separate case for it. Then proceed according to the following plan:
Using an ohmmeter, the winding with the highest resistance is determined. Typical colors are black and white. These wires will be the input to the power supply. If the transformer remains in the UPS, then this step can be skipped - the entrance to the homemade power supply in this case will be the “input” socket at the end of the UPS, connecting the device to the socket.
Next, an alternating current of 220 volts is supplied to the transformer. After this, the voltage is removed from the remaining contacts, looking for a pair with a potential difference of up to 15 volts. Typical colors are white and yellow. These wires will be the output from the power supply.
The input to the power supply is formed from wires on one side of the core. The output from the block is formed from wires located on the opposite side.
A diode bridge is installed at the output of the power supply.
Consumers are connected to the contacts of the diode bridge.
Transformer
The typical voltage at the output of the transformer is up to 15 V, but it will drop after connecting to homemade block load power supply. The designer of such a device will have to select the output voltage through experimentation. Therefore, the practice of using a UPS transformer as the basis of a power supply for a computer is far from the best idea.
Converting an uninterruptible power supply for charging
In this case, a minimal transformation similar to that described in the paragraph above is not needed. After all, the uninterruptible power supply has its own battery, which is charged as needed. As a result, to turn the UPS into charger you need to do the following:
Locate the primary and secondary circuit of the transformer. This process is described in the paragraph above.
Supply 220 volts to the primary circuit by inserting a voltage regulator into the circuit - as such, you can use a rheostat for light bulbs, replacing a traditional switch.
The regulator will help calibrate the voltage at the output winding in the range from 0 to 14-15 volts. The place where the regulator is inserted is in front of the primary winding.
Connect a 40-50 ampere diode bridge to the secondary winding of the transformer.
Connect the terminals of the diode bridge to the corresponding poles of the battery.
The battery charge level is monitored by its indicator or voltmeter.
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Every car owner at some point faces the question of how to charge a dead battery. He also appeared in front of me one day. And it happened, as always, unexpectedly, on a day off, in the village, and as luck would have it, no one nearby had anything similar to charging. I had to strain my brains and quickly make a simple but powerful charger from available materials. And the burnt UPS helped me with this - source uninterruptible power supply for computers. Without going into deep details, I’ll just note that this device powers the computer from the built-in 12-volt battery in the event of a power failure in the outlet.
From a broken uninterruptible power supply we take the most important thing - a powerful transformer, which usually remains intact; we don’t need all the other spare parts from it.
So, to make a simple charger you will need:
1. Transformer from a burnt-out uninterruptible power supply
2. Diode bridge (rectifier) 2-4 pcs.
3. Capacitor 100...1000 uF with a voltage of at least 25 V
4. Medium-sized radiator
5. Plank, plywood, plastic
6. Thermal paste KPT-8
7. Tester
8. Soldering iron, pieces of wire
Using a tester, we determine the winding terminals that have a higher resistance (from 10 to 50 Ohms), this will be a 220 V network winding. The terminals of the 12V secondary winding are thicker, it is wound with a thicker wire, so the resistance of the secondary winding is almost zero.
The pins that went to the output connectors of the uninterruptible power supply will now be connected to the network, and the wires through which 12V was supplied from the board will be connected to the rectifier.
You will also need several rectifier diode bridges GBU406, GBU 605, GBU606, and a filter capacitance, a capacitor from 100 to 1000 uF for a voltage of at least 25V (from a burnt-out computer power supply). A small radiator for diodes will also come in handy. Of course, you can make a rectifier using ordinary diodes with a maximum current of at least 10 A and a reverse voltage of at least 25 V, but at that moment they were not at hand, and later I also used ready-made rectifier bridges, because they are convenient to mount on a radiator . The rectifier bridges are stacked, coated with heat-conducting paste and pressed to the radiator with a long bolt. All pins of the same name are connected in parallel. Pros with pros, cons with cons, etc.
A transformer, a radiator with diodes are attached to a suitable size wooden plank, plywood, or piece of plastic, the entire circuit is mounted, a cord with a plug from an old soldering iron is connected - and charging is ready!
The mounting options and layout of the charger components can be any, based on what is at hand.
With a rectified output voltage of about 18 V, the charger freely provides a current of up to 5 A. A regular battery is charged in an hour, a very low one - in 3...4 hours. Many motorists in our village now have such a charger.
Moreover, to better charge the batteries, I came up with the idea of connecting the charger in pulse mode. Pulse, of course, is a strong word, it just means that it is connected to the socket through an electromechanical time relay.
This is a simple daily electromechanical relay, it comes from the Middle Kingdom and is sold in the store for 150 rubles.
Often in kulak households there is a working uninterruptible power supply (UPS) lying around idle with a dead battery. I propose to make it a 220 volt voltage source for the car. The design of the UPS may be different, but the principle is the same.
1. We disassemble the UPS, throw out the dead battery, bite off the terminals from it, and clean the ends.
2. Find the connector through which the UPS was connected to the 220 V network. In my version, the bottom right. We use it to connect to the on-board 12 V power system.
In my version, it is connected to the board via a connector, we bite it off. If there is no connector, simply bite the wires off the board and strip the ends.
3. Connect the wires going to the battery with the wires from the connector on the rear panel. The wires are thick, you will need a powerful soldering iron. We do not isolate the soldering points yet for later ringing.
4. Find the cigarette lighter socket and a regular computer cord (in my version it doesn’t have a plug). If you are not planning to use the inverter on the go in the car, I strongly recommend using alligator clips instead of the cigarette lighter socket and connecting the device directly to the battery.
We solder the cigarette lighter socket (clamps), observing the polarity (red is “plus”, black is “minus”), and isolate the soldering points.
5. An important point - so that the device does not scream like a robbed Jew, it is necessary to exclude the internal speaker.
I felt lazy about removing the board and unsoldering it for this purpose - I just tore off the speaker with pliers)))
In my version, I had to fix the transformer in the guides; for this, the discount card of the Astor chain, which died untimely in the abyss of the market, was ideal)))
6. Assemble the device body. All that remains is to attach standard sockets. There are UPSs that have them built into their design. I was unlucky; I had to destroy the carrier and the cord for connecting to the UPS.
A simple and cheap automotive voltage converter can be built on the basis of an old, non-working uninterruptible power supply, or more precisely, using some parts of the uninterruptible power supply.
The device is outrageously simple, but has several disadvantages, or rather:
1) lack of any protection against short circuit and overload at the output
2) Lack of output voltage stabilization
The only protection for the inverter is a pair of fuses, the first of which is installed in the power supply plus circuit, the second - at the output.
The CD4047 microcircuit is used as a pulse generator. This microcircuit directly generates pulses with a frequency of about 50 Hz and also controls field-effect transistors. Ideally, there is a lack of a specialized driver to control the transistors, but the micra does a good job. 
Transistors IRFZ44 or any other N-channel, with a voltage of 50 Volts and a current of 30 Amps and above. The inverter power is about 150 watts and, when using more powerful switches (for example, IRF3205) can be increased to 250-300 watts. 
I don’t recommend adding several switches in parallel in an arm in order to increase the output power; the microcircuit simply cannot cope with the control of the keys, as a result of which during operation the latter may not be completely closed, which will lead to a short circuit, and as a result we will get a couple of exploded field switches, which cost a lot of money. 
The topology of the circuit is push-pull, a regular two-stroke with a midpoint. 
The transformer is taken from an uninterruptible power supply, always with a middle point. There is no need to rewind, rewind or unwind anything, on the route there is a power winding with a midpoint and an output winding on which we get 220 Volts, you just need to ring the secondary windings (there may be several of them) and find the winding with the highest resistance (about 15-25 Ohm, depending on the type of transformer). It is this winding that is the network winding. 
By the way! I forgot to indicate that the frequency of the output pulses from the inverter is about 50 Hz, which can be adjusted using a trimming resistor on the board (the board can be downloaded at the end of the article)
The shape of the output pulses is rectangular, but commutator motors can be connected without problems, but I do not recommend asynchronous motors, although they will work.
The inverter was assembled in a case from a computer power supply; we also do not forget about cooling.
In my case, each field-effect transistor is installed on a separate heat sink, of course they are isolated from each other and also from the case. The leads of the power winding from the transformer cling directly to the radiators, which are the drain of the field-effect transistors (the transistors themselves are not isolated from the heat sinks). 
The installation is made so that the fan from the power supply is in close proximity to the radiators; it blows out warm exhaust air from under the case and is powered by the main 12 Volt bus.
In order for the inverter to work, in addition to the main power (from the battery), a low-current plus is supplied to the generator board, the latter starts working.
And I also want to note one point, if you have a truck, then you definitely need to know this resource. After all, not all cars last forever, and such a tow truck is difficult to find. So, come in and check out the information.
We make a powerful uninterruptible power supply based on a standard UPS by connecting two KAMAZ batteries to it. We also do automatic ventilation when switching to autonomous mode.
This is the reality that Russian power grids force consumers themselves to care about the stability of the electricity they receive. In our case, it is necessary to solve two important problems: a large voltage drop (typical of the hot/cold season, when air conditioners/electric heaters are turned on) and a complete power outage (“knocking out” of machines, accidents at a substation, etc.).
If the first problem is easily solved by installing an autotransformer, which allows you to obtain a stable voltage of 220 volts at the output, then the second requires the organization of an uninterruptible power supply system designed for a long period of autonomous operation.
Organize uninterrupted supply country house or a garage can be done by upgrading computer systems. After two years of operation, the internal batteries in any UPS degrade. Uninterruptible power supplies with non-working batteries have been repeatedly observed on the radio market at a symbolic price of 1000 rubles.
For long battery life, an uninterruptible power supply must be connected to high-capacity batteries. The most the best option There will be starter batteries from KAMAZ vehicles - 140 Ah. Since most powerful uninterruptible power supplies use batteries with a total voltage of 24 volts, we need a pair of batteries connected in series. The duration of the autonomous power supply will depend on the condition of your batteries.
First of all, we take out and throw away the faulty battery. For the convenience of connecting an external high-capacity battery, we need to make contact clamps (preferably red and black, indicating plus and minus, respectively). To do this, we make two holes on the front panel of the uninterruptible power supply, fix the contact clips and solder the wires to them that went to the internal battery.
Long-term operation in the state of converting battery energy into a voltage of 220 volts is accompanied by large heating. To prevent premature failure, it was decided to install two conventional fans measuring 80x80x25 mm on the ventilation grille.
The fans are connected in series. To start the fans in conversion mode, we use an LED, which indicates the operation of the uninterruptible battery power supply. We solder the leads of the LED to the windings of a small relay with wires. We solder a wire from the incoming positive of our battery to one of the relay contacts. The second is a free red fan wire. We solder the free black wire of the fan to the incoming minus of the battery.
All! Now, when the uninterruptible power supply switches to battery mode, the cooling will automatically turn on.
