Decorating boxes. Decoupage of an old box in three different styles How to varnish a wooden box

To protect the surface of a carved box or other wooden object, it must be varnished. Transparent polyurethane varnish will highlight the texture of the wood, make the surface shiny and protect it from moisture, dust and wear.

1. Before varnishing, the surface must be prepared: cleaned of dust and other contaminants, and, if necessary, degreased.

2. Place the box upside down on a pre-spread piece of wallpaper.

3. From a distance of 20-25 cm, apply a thin layer of varnish, after 3-5 minutes - another layer.

5. When the bottom of the box is dry, you need to turn it over and open it with varnish from the top and sides, and, if desired, from the inside. Varnish also in thin layers at intervals of 3-5 minutes.

ADDITION

In the same way you can varnish any new wooden products and also restore furniture. For varnishing hard-to-reach places, a special tube is supplied with a can of Bosny polyurethane varnish.

ATTENTION:

1. Apply varnish at room temperature in a room with good ventilation.

2. Before use, shake the can well.

3. After work, you need to turn the can upside down and press the spray button until clean air comes out. After this, the can of remaining paint can be stored until next time - there will be no dried coating on the sprayer that would clog the sprayer valve and prevent reuse.

4. It is recommended to use objects painted with polyurethane varnish no earlier than a day later, when the coating has completely dried.

Despite the fact that store windows offer a large number of jewelry boxes made from all kinds of materials, the desire to make one with your own hands does not disappear. After all, this is not only a tribute to your talent and skill, but also the desire to have an original thing that no one else can find. Besides great value has the fact that the box you make yourself will have exactly the size that is so necessary to place all the jewelry.

The box is made with your own hands in two stages:

1) Creating the box itself from scrap materials;

The material for it can be tape rings, wooden blocks or baguette scraps, old newspapers, shoe boxes, and other improvised materials.

Box made from a reel of adhesive tape

If a small jewelry box is enough for jewelry, you can make it from a paper spool of tape. The size of the finished product will correspond to its diameter and height.

To work you will need:
a reel freed from tape;
thick cardboard;
pencil;
scissors;
glue (preferably PVA).

For the bottom and lid of the future box, you need to make blanks from cardboard. It is enough to attach the reel to a sheet of cardboard and trace it with a pencil. We outline the resulting circles with another circle, the diameter of which is 3-4 centimeters larger than the previous one. These are the future rays with which the circles will be glued to the reel. You shouldn't make them very wide. The narrower they are, the more accurately the bottom will stick. The end result looks like this:

Before gluing the bottom to the bobbin, it is necessary to draw along the fold line with a non-sharp object, perhaps the edge of tweezers or a metal ruler. This will help you bend them neatly. To hide the petals on the side, you need to stick a cardboard tape over them, the length and width corresponding to the side of the reel.

For the lid you will need to cut a strip slightly longer than the volume of the reel and half its height wide. To ensure that the lid fits well and is not too large, you need to wrap a strip around the future box and glue its edges. When the side of the lid is dry, you need to glue the top to it as you did with the bobbin.

To increase the rigidity of the bottom and lid, you can glue another layer of cardboard inside, cut along the inner diameter of the reel. The finished box is decorated with your own hands using the decoupage technique; it can be painted with acrylic paints and opened with varnish, or a self-adhesive film with a pattern imitating natural materials: wood, stone can be glued over the entire surface.

DIY wooden jewelry box

Glue the lid to the box and after drying, carefully cut it off with a jigsaw, moving down the body by one and a half to two centimeters.

A wooden jewelry box is decorated using all known methods: varnishing, painting, decoupage, oracle, fabric, leather.

DIY box made from baguette

Chinese papier-mâché box

If the basis for papier-mâché was a round object, the lid was created together with the box, then it must be removed carefully, after first drawing a cut line with a pencil. If the layout was created without a lid, then after removing it from the base, you need to straighten the edges with scissors. The lid is attached to the box before being primed. Holes for the connecting cord can be made with a paper hole punch.

The decorated box is opened with your own hands using varnish. It is better to use acrylic-based varnish purchased at an art salon. Artists coat their canvases with this varnish to avoid contamination and fading of the paint.

DIY box made from bamboo napkin

To work you will need:
bamboo napkin;
thread and needle, PVA glue;
scissors, cardboard, finishing fabric;
magnetic clasp.

Cut out the sides of the future box of any shape from cardboard.

Every woman at home has a box, a box, a jar in which jewelry, jewelry, cosmetics, and so on are stored. The most common items for storing small items are boxes. They are made of wood, cardboard, glass, metal. Nowadays you can buy a lot in the store, but there are many people who love to create and decorate objects with their own hands. If you decide to decorate your box, make it original and unique, our master class will help you. The decorative technique is the simplest, most accessible and understandable. You don’t need to have any special skill to decorate a box with your own hands and add charm to it.

If after repair there is a piece of vinyl wallpaper left, you can use it to decorate a wooden or cardboard box. Our master class will tell you how to decorate a simple thing with your own hands using textured wallpaper and give the surface a metallic effect. Let's say you have this roll of wallpaper left. Wallpaper can be of any color; our task is to paint the paper to match the color of the metal.

To work you will need:

1. A piece of wallpaper or textured paper.
2. PVA construction adhesive.
3. Paper towels.
4. Acrylic paints: black, copper, red, silver, green, dark gold.
5. Varnish for coating.

To decorate a box with your own hands, you need to take a roll of wallpaper or textured paper, attach it to the box and cut off a piece with an allowance for the sides.

You can decorate only the lid of the box without touching the side walls. You can decorate both the lid and sides. Who likes it more? To cover the lid, apply a brush or sponge to the back of the paper. Take PVA glue and dilute it a little with water. You need to spread it so thickly that the paper is well saturated with glue and swells. Leave the paper aside for a while until it swells completely. Then we glue it onto the surface of the box. Press firmly with a sponge or with your hands to the surface. Make sure there are no wrinkles or bubbles.

Next, let the glue dry and only then paint the box and give it the look of metal, aged by time. To apply paint to the surface, use disposable paper towels soaked in water. We need the paint to lie unevenly and in irregular islands. First, cover the surface of the box with black acrylic paint. We have it in a can, but it can also be in a jar.

Let it dry and then cover it with red acrylic paint.

Add silver paint after the previous one has dried.

We tone down the red silver with bronze color.

At the end of the master class, we apply a varnish coating to the resulting product. The varnish can be any: matte or glossy, aerosol or simple. You can also decorate a vase, you will get a set.

In this master class, we combined several techniques for decorating a box with our own hands. Let's try to mix styles, textures and techniques. Main topic This master class is an imitation of fabric using painting. Since not everyone knows how to draw well, we decided to use a stencil here.

A stencil design is attached, you can choose any one you like.

The master class is simple, even a beginner can handle it.

To work you will need:

1. Casket or box.
2. Acrylic primer.
3. Acrylic paints.
4. Tassels.
5. Stencil.
6. Masking tape.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Everything that can be useful for decoration: cord, ribbons, lace, braid, and so on.

If the box or blank is made of wood, you may need to sand it with sandpaper and varnish it. This way we will protect the workpiece from swelling.

We wait for it to dry and cover it with acrylic primer.

Dry and sand. Cover the bottom and top corners with masking tape.

We paint all sides of the box with any light acrylic paint. Thus, we make the bottom layer for imitation fabric.

We paint with a brush in a horizontal direction, applying the paint evenly and evenly. Next, let the workpiece dry, sand it with sandpaper and varnish it. We mix our light paint with the same beige paint a shade darker.

The paint should not be too thick, so be sure to wet the brush in water and squeeze it out. Apply it to the side with horizontal strokes.

Then we take a sponge or brush and sweep it across the surface in a horizontal direction.

That is, we need to make an imitation of fabric. This will be one direction of our “fabric”. This is what should happen after processing with a sponge or brush:

We needed a layer of varnish to prevent the paint from being absorbed into the surface of the product. If it weren't for the varnish, we wouldn't have gotten such a textured surface. We do the same with all the side surfaces of the box: paint and wipe off the paint with a sponge or brush. It will be great if you apply varnish on top. We wait for the product to dry, put the same paint on a wet brush and paint the side parts, but this time vertically. We erase the paint with a sponge vertically. As a result, we should get “fabric”.

Dry and lightly sand the sides of the product. We choose a stencil for our pattern. Let's say this is a drawing with a rose.

We cover with tape the places that are not needed for decoration. We place the stencil on the side of the product.

Choosing colors for printing the pattern. In this master class these are yellow, burgundy, light green and dark green. We take paint onto a brush or sponge and apply it to the stencil. There should not be a lot of paint so that it does not flow under the template. Your brush should be semi-dry. Don’t rush, if the first time it didn’t turn out bright, you can go over it with a brush again. We remove the stencil and wait for the paint to dry. Turn the stencil over to the other side. Flowers should be arranged randomly. We paint the stencil.

This is what the side looks like. There should be no empty spaces; instead, draw leaves on the main background. Fill the empty space with small leaves.

Next, sand the sides after the surface has dried. To complete the job, you can coat the sides of the product with several layers of varnish. It's time to work on the lid. Place strips of masking tape on the sides of the lid. We paint the lid in the same order as the sides. First, we varnish a light color, similar to the “fabric”. Then the “fabric” itself: paint horizontally with a brush, then vertically.

Dry the lid, place the stencil on it in different directions. Apply yellow and light green paints. We fill all empty spaces with small sheets. Apply the stencil again, paint the roses burgundy and the leaves dark green. Sand horizontally and vertically with a brush after drying. We admire our work and apply varnish in 2-3 layers.

We decorate the bottom of the box and the sides at our discretion. In this master class, the sides of the lid are painted yellow, and a cord is glued with a glue gun. At the bottom there is a velvet ribbon glued with Moment glue. Wooden legs are glued. It will be beautiful if you attach a strip of lace or gold braid, cord, and so on.

The decor of the box is limitless for your imagination. All this beauty can be made with your own hands. Not all boxes have an elegant design and are suitable for interior decoration. But if desired, this can be easily fixed. Anyone who has a little free time, patience and inspiration can make something exclusive.

You can decorate with anything: buttons, paper flowers, lace, polymer clay, beads, glass, coins, shells, and so on. Perhaps you have jewelry lying around that you don’t wear, but you don’t dare throw it away: it’s also useful for decoration. The photo shows a variety of decor for storage items. We hope that these ideas and master classes will be useful to you in your creativity.

Despite the fact that store windows offer a large number of jewelry boxes made from all kinds of materials, the desire to make one with your own hands does not disappear. After all, this is not only a tribute to your talent and skill, but also the desire to have an original thing that no one else can find. In addition, it is of great importance that the box you make yourself will have exactly the size that is so necessary to accommodate all the jewelry.

The box is made with your own hands in two stages:

1) Creating the box itself from scrap materials;

The material for it can be tape rings, wooden blocks or baguette scraps, old newspapers, shoe boxes, and other improvised materials.

Box made from a tape reel

Box made from a reel of adhesive tape

If it's enough for decorations small jewelry box, then you can make it from a paper reel for adhesive tape. Size finished product will correspond to its diameter and height.

To work you will need:
a reel freed from tape; thick cardboard; pencil; scissors; glue (preferably PVA).

For the bottom and lid of the future box, you need to make blanks from cardboard. It is enough to attach the reel to a sheet of cardboard and trace it with a pencil. We outline the resulting circles with another circle, the diameter of which is 3-4 centimeters larger than the previous one. These are the future rays with which the circles will be glued to the reel. You shouldn't make them very wide. The narrower they are, the more accurately the bottom will stick. End result looks like this:

Before gluing the bottom to the bobbin, it is necessary to draw along the fold line with a non-sharp object, perhaps the edge of tweezers or a metal ruler. This will help you bend them neatly. To hide the petals on the side, you need to stick a cardboard tape over them, the length and width corresponding to the side of the reel.

For the lid you will need to cut a strip slightly longer than the volume of the reel and half its height wide. To ensure that the lid fits well and is not too large, you need to wrap a strip around the future box and glue its edges. When the side of the lid is dry, you need to glue the top to it as you did with the bobbin.

To increase the rigidity of the bottom and lid, you can glue another layer of cardboard inside, cut along the inner diameter of the reel. The finished box is decorated with your own hands using the decoupage technique; it can be painted with acrylic paints and opened with varnish, or a self-adhesive film with a pattern imitating natural materials: wood, stone can be glued over the entire surface.

DIY wooden jewelry box

Making such a box is more labor-intensive than the previous version, but it will also last much longer than a paper one. To work you will need:

pencil, ruler;
a long board 10 millimeters thick, 10 centimeters wide, made of soft wood: pine, alder, linden; a board for the bottom and lid, its width is equal to the width of the finished product; hand saw with fine teeth or jigsaw; knife; sandpaper; PVA glue (it’s better to use construction glue) or carpentry glue “Moment”.

Having decided on the dimensions of the box, you need to cut two blanks from the board, equal to its length and width. At the end of each, you need to make a 45-degree bevel with a knife so that the walls fit together nicely. The depth of the bevel is equal to the width of the board.

Before gluing the side parts, you need to make sure that the bevels match tightly, without gaps. Otherwise, they need to be adjusted using coarse sandpaper. The sides are glued together gradually. After each subsequent gluing, it is necessary to check the internal angle between them. It should be equal to 90. Otherwise, the result can be any shape, just not an even rectangle.

There are two options for installing the bottom:

if the finished product will be pasted over with paper or fabric, then the blank for the bottom is taken equal to the size of the box and glued so that its side parts are visible;

Wooden box covered with paper

If a DIY jewelry box is covered only with varnish or paint, then it will look more beautiful when the bottom is hidden inside it. To do this, take a blank that is shorter in length and width than the size of the box by two board thicknesses. For example: if the box dimensions are 10x10 cm and the wall thickness is 1 cm, the bottom needs to be 8x8 cm.

Varnished wooden box

The manufacture of the lid can also be made in two versions:

cut the workpiece and install it on the hinges. Best option fastening the lid - a piece of piano hinge, the length of which is a couple of centimeters shorter than the length of the box. All ends of the boards visible on the finished product must be carefully sanded;

Glue the lid to the box and after drying, carefully cut it off with a jigsaw, moving down the body by one and a half to two centimeters.

A wooden jewelry box is decorated using all known methods: varnishing, painting, decoupage, oracle, fabric, leather.

DIY box made from baguette

Luxurious baguette box

Boxes made from baguette, a material for picture frames, look chic and rich. It is made of wood or plastic. Plastic is soft and can be cut and processed no worse than wood. You can buy a baguette in art salons, having previously determined how long the blank is needed. The principle of making such boxes is identical to working with wooden blanks.

DIY papier-mâché jewelry box

Papier-mâché box

We have known what papier-mâché is and how to work with it since school. The advantage of this material is the variety of shapes of the finished product. It is enough just to find the original blank of the required shape to create an original box.

To work you will need:
newspapers or thin office paper; Vaseline or any cream; scissors, brushes; PVA glue or wallpaper.

DIY papier-mâché box

The base must be covered with Vaseline or cream so that the papier-mâché can be easily removed later. The first layer of thinly torn paper needs to be wetted and covered the entire surface of the base. The paper for the second and each subsequent layer is carefully lubricated with glue. It is necessary to ensure that there are no missing sections. It is convenient to alternate, for example, layers of newspaper and white paper. How better paper impregnated with glue - the stronger the papier-mâché will be. The number of layers is optional. After complete drying, the box blank must be removed from the mold and prepared for decoration. If this is a painting with paints, then it must be coated with an acrylic primer. In addition to painting, the box can be decorated with your own hands with beads, ribbons, buttons, figures made of plastic or salt dough.

Chinese papier-mâché box

If the basis for papier-mâché was a round object, the lid was created together with the box, then it must be removed carefully, after first drawing a cut line with a pencil. If the layout was created without a lid, then after removing it from the base, you need to straighten the edges with scissors. The lid is attached to the box before being primed. Holes for the connecting cord can be made with a paper hole punch.

The decorated box is opened with your own hands using varnish. It is better to use acrylic-based varnish purchased at an art salon. Artists coat their canvases with this varnish to avoid contamination and fading of the paint.

DIY box made from bamboo napkin

To work you will need:
bamboo napkin; thread and needle, PVA glue; scissors, cardboard, finishing fabric; magnetic clasp.

Cut out the sides of the future box of any shape from cardboard.

Sew or glue decorative fabric to them on both sides, leaving small seam allowances. A bamboo napkin can also be decorated with fabric on the side that will be inside the box. The sides can be sewn or glued to the napkin, leaving some part free.

The clasp can be made in the form of a loop and button, or you can purchase a magnetic one at a hardware store.

To prevent the jewelry box from getting dirty and to have a neat appearance for a long time, it is better to open it with acrylic varnish.

Several ways to decorate boxes

Below are photos of jewelry boxes made using different decorating techniques.

For lovers of rigor and minimalism in everything, it is enough to make the box a single color, covering it with paint and protective varnish.

Decoupage decoration technique has recently come into fashion, but has already become very popular. A large assortment of illustrations for decoupage, including images of paintings by great artists, is produced on special napkins. You can use regular napkins, magazine illustrations, and even wrapping paper. You will also need sharp scissors, several brushes, PVA glue, paints, and acrylic varnish. Before starting work, the surface must be primed with acrylic paint or glue. Carefully smooth each element of the image with a brush dipped in glue until it is completely glued to the surface and air bubbles come out from under it.

Proportions for salt dough: 1 part flour (the cheapest without additives) to 3 parts salt, mix and add water until the consistency of soft plasticine. Decorative elements made from dough, unlike putty, are first made and then glued to the surface.
After drying, the decor should be covered with two layers of white acrylic paint. It is better to paint with acrylic too. After drying, apply one or two coats of varnish.

Below are photos of jewelry boxes decorated with beads, seashells, fabric and ribbons:

Box decorated with beads

A homemade box will not only decorate your interior, giving it individuality, but can also be an excellent gift for any occasion. And the material for its manufacture will be any household item or gift from nature. The main thing is a little imagination and perseverance.

It is quite possible to make a lacquer miniature at home.
In this case, we are not talking about real lacquer painting, but about lacquer miniatures in the classical concept.
Artistic painting can be replaced with a color reproduction or postcard, which are pasted onto a box, decorative plate, tray, brooch, etc., the surface of which is then varnished.

The main thing is to master the varnishing technique, which is not that difficult at all. Outwardly, such work is almost no different from real varnish painting.

To complete the work you will need the following materials and tools: brushes, glue, varnish, solvents, sandpaper. And also an illustration that will be pasted.
It is important to remember that the design on it must be one-sided, it reverse side must remain clean. Otherwise, when gluing and applying varnish, the image with reverse side may bleed through to the front side and the work will be ruined.

The illustration can be pasted in its entirety or the image can be composed of individual fragments. The background of the base can be any color. But if the picture is made up of separate parts or is smaller in size than the base, then it is better if the background is black.

You can stick the picture on a base made of any material: wood, metal, ceramics, plastic or
papier-mâché.
For this, glues BF:2, N-88 or PVA are used. It is these adhesives that do not interact with most furniture varnishes and do not dissolve in them.
If you use a different glue, the paper may peel off, bubbles may form on it, and the color of the design may change.

Before pasting the illustration, the background of the base is tinted. This can be done with colored tsapon varnish or regular celluloid varnish.
Tsaponlak can be used in various colors: black (No. 955), red (No. 956), green (No. 959), purple (No. 963), blue (No. 964).
Instead of tsaponlak, you can use alcohol varnish with dye dissolved in it. The color of the varnish is chosen depending on what background the picture looks more impressive against.

If a wooden base is used for a lacquer miniature, it must first be impregnated with drying oil. This will not only save varnish, but also give a more uniform coating.
The next important stage of work is gluing the illustration. It must be glued so that no air gap is formed between the base and the paper, and the illustration is completely adjacent to the surface.

If the base is convex or concave, the picture must first be moistened with water, pressed tightly to the surface and dried in this state.
If the base and the picture are approximately the same size, then later it will be enough to paint over and varnish the ends of the future product so that the edges of the pasted illustration are not visible.
If the picture is smaller than the base, then several layers of varnish will be required to hide the ledge between the paper and the base of the product.

When the picture is glued to the base and dried well, place the workpiece on a horizontal surface and begin to fill it with varnish.
For this purpose, nitrocellulose furniture varnishes NTs-222 or NTs-228 are used.

The product is placed on a wooden stand, slightly smaller than its base, so that the product does not stick to the table with the flowing varnish.
The first layer of varnish is applied with a soft brush using light and quick strokes. In order for the varnish layer to be very thin and dry quickly, without changing the colors of the illustration, you should apply as little varnish as possible to the brush.

In order not to damage the paint layer of the illustration, you should not brush the brush several times over the same place. If you manage to apply the first layer of varnish evenly and it dries well without changing the color of the illustration, there is no fear that when applying subsequent layers of varnish the image will blur or change color.

One more feature of the varnishing technique should be taken into account.
. Even if you work with a very soft brush, tiny air bubbles will still form on the surface of the product. Therefore, in order for the varnished surface to be absolutely smooth and mirror-like, it is not varnished with a brush, but filled with varnish.
This is done as follows: pour a small amount of varnish into the center of the product, and then use a soft brush to spread it around the edges.

When leveling the varnish, you must ensure that the layer thickness is at least 1-1.5 mm over the entire surface. To do this, new portions of varnish are gradually added to the center of the image. Furniture varnish thickens and dries quite quickly.
The resulting drips can be cleaned with fine sandpaper and filled with the next layer of varnish.

Usually a thick layer of varnish hardens and dries, forming an even, glossy film. But if you need to achieve a mirror surface, then 3-4 days after the varnish has completely hardened, the product can be polished with GOY No. 290 paste (light green).
You can also use toothpaste that contains silica for polishing.

If you want to stylize a lacquer miniature in an “antique” way, then the top layers are not filled with colorless varnish, but use varnish with a brownish tint.
To do this, add a little asphalt-bitumen black varnish to the nitro varnish.
In this case, you can achieve different shades - from light brown to dark brown.

You can get an interesting coating if you first fill the image with a light varnish, let it dry well, and then apply an even thin layer of black asphalt or dark brown to it with a brush furniture varnish. The varnish should thicken a little (when touched with a finger, a fairly distinct mark should remain, but the varnish should no longer stick).

Then light varnish is poured into the center of the image and, blurring the black with it, it is dispersed to the edges with a soft brush. This must be done quickly, with frequent brush strokes, adding new portions of light varnish. The smoothness of the transition from light to dark will depend on how often the brush is wiped from black varnish. Each subsequent stroke must begin with the already lightened part.
As a result, you can get a miniature with an image that seems to glow from within.